Chicago's Little Haiti, Part 2: Haitian American Museum of Chicago

NOTE: In honor of Haitian Flag Day and Haitian Heritage Month, here is a (very overdue) continuation of my trip to Chicago’s Little Haiti’s cultural sites, the Haitian American Museum of Chicago (HAMOC). Due to COVID-19 public health measures, the state of Illinois is still under a shut-down, and non-essential businesses must remain closed until further notice. If you wish to support the HAMOC and its mission to bring forth the rich culture and history of Haiti to Chicago (again... A city founded by a Haitian settler - don’t you forget it), please visit their website here


After having lunch at Kizin Creole, I made my way down to the Uptown neighborhood of Chicago to visit the Haitian American Museum of Chicago (HAMOC). Being a Brooklyn native and with a newly announced designation of Little Haiti in the East Flatbush area, I have never seen a cultural center dedicated to Haitian culture. Hence, HAMOC was a must-see on my trip.

The Founder, Elsie Hector Hernandez:

The Haitian American Museum of Chicago was founded by Elsie Hector Hernandez in 2012. A native of Haiti, she came to the States at a young age and settled in New York City. She did much of her schooling in the city, later working as a nurse, and was involved in the local community with her husband. After traveling to Chicago, the couple decided to make the big move from the Big Apple to the Windy City and have remained there since. When I inquired about how the museum came to fruition, she shared that although Chicago was founded by a Haitian settler, Jean Baptiste Point du Sable, the city doesn’t offer much dedicated to DuSable’s heritage and the sizable Haitian community that thrives in the city. She also commented that this museum space and Kizin Creole are really the only two entities (at the time of my visit in September 2019) that are focused on Haitian culture and identity. After a trip to Haiti to support the medical relief efforts after the 2010 earthquake, Elsie became inspired to create a museum to focus on the beauty, history, and strength of the Haitian people. She currently lives in Chicago’s South Side, which is home to the largest concentration of Haitian Chicagoans in the city. 

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Stepping in front of the museum, you are met with a large Haitian flag flown at the mast (but, of course) and large windows to allow a sneak peek of the paintings. Walking inside, I was greeted by the museum’s manager, Vishnu Menon. Vishnu, who is by way of India, has formal education in business and arts management. During my visit, I asked more about him and how did he come to learn about the museum. He shared that he heard about the opportunity through his professional network. He supported the museum’s mission of community engagement and wanted to be a part of the journey.

The museum does have an admission fee of five dollars, but patrons of Haitian descent only pay four dollars, and it is based on an honor system. I knew the small Haitian flag I carry with me would come in handy, and I proudly rummaged through my purse and waved it. It actually wasn’t needed for me to show it, but what was the point of carrying the flag around if I won’t have an opportunity to be extra with it? Once I paid the admission fee, I was granted access to see the full space. 



Across the walls are paintings of historical figures in Haiti’s revolutionary history. Each painting featured a small placard that listed the name of the piece, creator, and year of completion. An additional placard near the paintings shares a bit of history, so patrons can be able to directly interact with the artwork. 



Jean Yves Hector, Artist in Residence:



Another section of the space is reserved for artists’ in residency and commissioned works. One of the full-time artists in residence whose paintings were showcased in the gallery is Jean Yves Hector. I had the opportunity to meet with Jean-Yves and learn more about his work. Jean-Yves is a native of Haiti’s capital city, Port-au-Prince, and travels between Chicago and Haiti. Along with being an artist and artist-in-residence at the museum, he is also an Advisory Board Member (and also the nephew of the museum’s founder, Elsie). As an entirely self-taught artist, Jean-Yves’ work is inspired by the traditional spirituality of Haiti, and while not a religious man himself, he finds deep appreciation for the traditional spirituality and incorporates them into his work.



Lowell Thompson, Uptown’s “Colored Man”:

Lowell “Raceman” Thompson. Credit: Unknown.

Lowell “Raceman” Thompson. Credit: Unknown.



While at the museum, I had the opportunity to meet with another established Chicago artist, Lowell Thompson, a long time Uptown neighborhood resident. Uptown was an area of Chicago known as the heart of the arts and entertainment district in the 1900s. Over the century and after World War II, when many families flocked to the suburbs, the neighborhood started to see an influx of residents from the South and Appalachian areas (many of them white), with Blacks, Hispanics, and Asians moving into the area. The neighborhood, later on, became a hub for drug addicts, felons, and the mentally ill. The artist pointed out to me that after the push of gentrification in the area, there is only one housing facility left for these groups. The artist also pointed out that the Uptown area is one of the truly most diverse neighborhoods in the city, and people actually get along well here. As a New Yorker, this came as a shock to me, because gentrification has been a harsh topic of debate and created much tension amongst many groups. I can say that I also felt the comfort of the diversity and community while walking around a bit in the Uptown area.

Lowell was chosen to create an art installation that represents the Uptown neighborhood. After five years, his work “Uptown’s Colored Wheel” was unveiled on May 10th, 2019. The 10-ton icon, according to him, is a “tribute to the least segregated place in the most segregated big city in America.” His work is a part of a goal to eliminate racial divisions “to change the human race from ‘black or white’ to COLORED™.” Thompson is also the author of African Americans in Chicago (Images of America), which is a photography book that features prominent residents of Chicago from Muhammad Ali, Ida B. Wells, Oprah Winfrey, former President Barack Obama, and more. 


What’s next for HAMOC?



As the museum continues to grow, Elsie aspires to have the museum be more visible in the tourism of Chicago’s famed cultural and historical art scene. As more visitors travel to the city, she continues to find ways that she can showcase the museum and the Haitian culture. Another goal for Elsie is to find a way for more Haitian Chicagoans to find a stronger sense of community. She noted that unlike other stronghold Haitian enclaves in other U.S. cities and even abroad, Chicago’s Haitian community is quite dispersed throughout the city, making it difficult to pinpoint a central area where many Haitians can congregate and find their community (somewhat akin to the Little Haiti neighborhood of Miami, Florida). The museum proudly celebrated its 7th anniversary in December 2019, and I wish them many more years of welcoming visitors and bringing Haitian history and culture to the great city of Chicago.



If you would like to learn more about the museum, please check out their website and social media here: Facebook and Instagram. If you are looking to explore “less touristy” areas of Chicago and enjoy visiting local hotspots, I highly recommend making a visit to the Haitian American Museum of Chicago. I mean… their Google reviews don’t lie. Don’t believe me? See for yourself



Peace and Blessings,

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Chicago's Little Haiti, Part 1: Kizin Creole Restaurant

During my visit to the Windy City, I decided to create my own “Little Haiti” day, visiting the cultural entities of the Chicago Haitian community. Unbeknownst to many people, Chicago is a city founded by Jean Baptiste Point du Sable, who is recognized as the first non-indigenous settler to the area. Du Sable is of French and African ancestry and originally from Saint-Marc, Haiti (a port city located north of the Haitian capital, Port-au-Prince). The existing Illinois Haitian community is smaller than its larger counterparts in New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut tri-state area, Massachusetts, and Florida (all states combined have a Haitian population of close to 1 million), but is thriving nonetheless. 

My first stop was to Kizin Creole, a Haitian restaurant located on 2311 Howard St, along the border of the West Ridge neighborhood. Upon coming to the restaurant, you are greeted by Haitian artwork, from figurines, vases, and paintings (also known as “tableaux”). The main dining room floor is quite spacious, and the staff was in the process of preparing for their seventh annual “Taste of Haiti” event (more about the event - keep on reading!). 

Along another wall, are accolades and awards presented to the restaurant and owners, Daniel and Patricia Desir, a husband-wife team of chefs hailing from Haiti (Daniel from Jacmel and Patricia from Port-de-Paix). The features range from the National Black Chef Association to glowing reviews from the popular and largest circulated newspaper in the country, the Chicago Tribune. Another area has small pastries created by Patricia Desir, called “The Chef Pattie Collection”. 

Of course, while visiting the restaurant, I ordered a meal. I mean - it’s not like I skipped breakfast just for this meal or anything and planned the meals on my trip just for this moment (which I did...). I made an order consisting of some of my favorite Haitian foods: griot (fried seasoned pork), diri cole (rice and beans), pikliz (pickled cabbage soaked for days in a spicy vinegar mixture), sweet plantain, and macaroni gratin (Haitian-style oven-baked macaroni and cheese). 

I had a chance to sit down with Daniel Desir, executive chef of the restaurant (Patricia Desir was cooking and organizing meals in the kitchen for customers) to learn more about the restaurant and his family’s role in the community. 

Before Kizin Creole opened its doors in 2012, another Haitian restaurant named Chez Violette had a home at 2311 Howard Street and was one of two thriving Haitian restaurants in the area. Opening a restaurant was not the first thing on the couple’s mind when they first arrived in Chicago. After meeting and getting married in Florida in 2000, they made their way up to the Windy City of Chicago to start a chapter. As established artists (Daniel, a trained performing artist in dance and Patricia, a gospel recording artist), Chicago offered them more opportunity to thrive in the arts. Daniel already had experience in business from his own ventures in Haiti and decided to pursue and completed a bachelor’s degree in Business Administration from National Louis University, and Patricia graduated from the prestigious culinary school Le Cordon Bleu in Chicago. Having a world of knowledge of business, the arts, and an established relationship with Chez Violette, when the opportunity came for the torch to be passed along from the former restaurant’s closing, they were eager to keep the fire lit. 

While the Haitian community is thriving in numbers in here with an estimated of 40,000 residents of the diaspora in the Chicago metropolitan area (a significant amount in Evanston and a very sizable number in Chicago’s South Side), Daniel admitted that there isn’t much a stronghold in the city in comparison to other areas such as New York City, Miami, and Boston where the authenticity and culture can be more visible and “you can feel it.” This can make it quite difficult for small Haitian businesses to have longevity. 

One of their staple events is Taste of Haiti, entering its seventh year on Saturday, Sept. 28th, 2019. The inspiration for the event came from Chicago’s own acceptance of various ethnic groups and their foods (coming from New York City, I was very surprised at how blended the diversity was in the areas of the city I visited). Realizing that there was no representation of Haitian food (especially when the city’s founder is Haitian!), the Desirs’ decided to fill in that gap and provide an experience that has come to be a neighborhood and city favorite for the past six years. For this year’s event, they are anticipating their most massive crowd yet of over 800 patrons throughout the day. 

They attribute the growing success of the event to their social media presence (which was very surprising to me to see a Haitian restaurant with old-school vibes fully embrace - they are even on GrubHub! Score!) and the most influential: word of mouth. Daniel shared with me that anytime Haiti is in the spotlight, from natural disasters to the infamous “sh*thole” statements made by the President, local news publications seek out Kizin and the Desirs’ to get a “perspective of the diaspora.” What could be seen as “bad publicity” for the country, the Desirs’ use that visibility to their advantage and showcase the positives of the culture through their restaurant. 

Daniel also attributes Kizin’s success to how their restaurant is able to present a welcoming environment for Chicagoans of all demographics in a modern way, something he says that most Haitian restaurants don’t do. Of course, this brings the controversial topic of “catering or pandering” to gain favor with people outside of the Haitian diaspora (also a topic frequently discussed with the growth of black-owned businesses), which the Desirs’ has been criticized for trying to be “too hip”. They take the criticism in stride and again, use it to gain more visibility for their restaurant and showcase the authenticity of the Haitian culture to all. “We just keep it moving […] we have a lot of people behind us,” Daniel says. In Rose’s translation: “haters gonna hate, but they are still invited to the party.”


Outside of the business, the Desirs’ are also parents to four children, are involved in their local community from church to catering for local events, and even philanthropy with local charities and social service programs. The children get involved in the restaurant when time permits, and also serve as great spokespeople for the family business. Daniel says they do a lot of advertising (all on their own!) at school and teachers and their own families come to support the restaurant as well. 


Daniel says they aren’t certain about their future in the culinary business, but they do recognize the need for more visibility in the Chicago area. He references to the many requests they have received from Haitians in the South Side to bring their business to the area (something they hope to explore more in the future). “And even possibly, if God-Willing, and things are the way they are supposed to be - maybe we can go to other cities and make Kizin Creole a brand. We can have Kizin Creole in New York, Haiti, Miami, and Boston. I mean - who knows?” 

Thank you to Daniel and Patricia Desir for allowing me to interview them and have a great lunch in their restaurant, Kizin Creole. For those who want to support Kizin Creole and the Desirs’, please come out to Taste of Haiti on Saturday, Sept. 29th 2019, from 12pm - 11pm! **

** At the time when this post was originally scheduled to be published this week, the event was already sold out, but I still wanted to get the word about the restaurant!

Taste of Haiti!

Taste of Haiti!

Thank you for reading! Part Two of my Little Haiti Day coming soon!

Peace and Blessings,